Some folks want to avoid the ARB
compressor and 12 volt solenoid valves all together when doing an ARB install.
They believe these extra items decrease the reliability of the system and leave
them at risk on the trail. While one can not argue against the idea that
more parts means more things to break, I personally do not believe the
compressor and solenoid valves are an issue. I carry a spare solenoid
for that "just in case" situation although I have yet to use it. None the
less, I have included some additional information that you may find to your
liking if you wish to keep the install simple (and reduce your cost by over $100
The above pictured air valve is manually operated by the toggle at the right hand side of the valve assembly. This valve is mounted so that the toggle shows through the dash and the remainder is hidden behind it. For all intents and purposes, it looks like an electrical switch for your rock lights or a similar item.
The air valve can be powered from either a regulated CO2 tank or some other on-board air system. I helped ScottK install these on his TJ when he did his 8.8" rear axle. The one thing I would recommend is that you use some 1/8" plastic line and remote mount the exhaust filter (that is the cone shaped thing on top of the valve) outside the cab of the vehicle. (run it through the firewall and zip tie it into place) When you release pressure on the valve, the air that exhausts may smell something like the inside of a differential. I would prefer to NOT have that smell in the cab. Easy to do and makes for odor free operation.
I won't go in to more detail
because you can go to
and get everything you need.
4x4 Off-Road Homestead Firearms RC Flying