For some folks, this write-up may be extremely basic, but some of you have dropped me an e-mail and asked for some basic maintenance write-ups, such as changing the engine oil. I don't know about the rest of you, but I learned how to do this years ago as a kid, growing up on a farm. While I take it for granted, others haven't had the opportunity to learn how to do it and this is certainly a task that anyone can do in their driveway and save a few dollars at the same time. MOST importantly, you will know it was done correctly....I simply don't trust the folks at the local quicky lube down on the corner. Read about too many issues that folks have had when using them. Likewise, I've seen the "oil boy" at a local 5 star Jeep dealership mess things up too. So thank you very much, I'll do my own oil changes (and the rest of the maintenance too for that matter).
Before you start changing the oil, you will need a few things. If you have a 4.0L engine, pick up 6 quarts of oil. It is recommended that you consult your owner's manual for the recommended weight of oil. I prefer synthetic oil and use Mobil 1. It costs several dollars a quart more than conventional oil and some folks argue that it is not worth it. I drive about 10K miles per year, which means I do about 3 oils changes per year (every 3K miles). The extra expense for the synthetic oil does not make that much of a difference to me with only 3 oil changes per year. Regardless of the type of oil you choose, be sure to get the proper amount (my engine takes 6 quarts when I change the oil filter) and pick up a new oil filter as well. The folks at your local auto parts store will be able to assist you in doing this if you are not at all certain about getting the correct oil and filter.
You will also need to capture your old oil in some type of container. I use one that I got from the auto parts store and it ran me about $10. I recycle my used oil at the same store I get my new oil and filter at. Please dispose of your used oil properly. Please do not dump it in the ditch or down the storm drain. You will probably need an oil filter wrench (more on that later) which can be had for a couple of dollars as well, from the auto parts store. Luckily the oil filter wrench and catch container will be used over and over again so it is a one time expense.
I prefer to change the oil after taking the vehicle for a drive around the block once (or twice if it is cold outside). My point is that I like to warm the oil up and bit and get the oil flowing well before draining it from the oil pan. One thing to consider is that the material used in the TJ's oil cap (as seen above) is made from something that seems to swell when it gets hot. Removing it when the engine is hot can be a challenge and some folks have actually broken the cap. (Here is some additional info on what to do if the cap is stuck and you can't wait for the engine block to cool down.) Hence, I do NOT change my oil when the engine has been driven for a period of time and the engine compartment is up to typical operating temperature. I'll wait until it cools down and the cap can be easily removed.
Which brings us to the first step.....remove the oil fill cap from the valve cover, located on top of your engine (as seen above). Take a clean rag or paper towel and carefully clean any dirt or residue from around the filler hole. Be careful you do not brush the "junk" into the hole. Likewise, wipe the threads of the filler cap clean and then set it aside. Make sure you will be able to add your new oil before you drain the old oil.
Depending on how high your Jeep is lifted, you may have to get creative when it comes to positioning the used oil container under the oil pan. I find that a milk crate does just fine to move the the container up to a suitable location. I've found that I usually end up with oil all over the driveway if I leave the catch container on the ground (your luck may vary). When I do my wife's car, the container sits on the ground as her car is ever so much lower than my Jeep. Put some newspapers down to catch the splatter (or near miss)
At the rear of the oil pan, you will find a hex head oil pan
plug just waiting there for you to slip a 5/8" wrench onto so you can remove it.
Note that in the above picture, I have an oil pan guard protecting the pan
itself. The manufacturer of the oil pan guard made an access hole in the
guard so I could still get the wrench on the drain plug. Loosen the oil
pan plug a turn or two but do not remove it just yet. Now slide the catch
container under the oil pan drain hole.
The oil will kind of flow out in an arc so make sure you are ready to slide the catch container around a bit as you remove the drain plug. When you remove that plug, it comes out with pretty good force.
While the oil is draining into the catch container, inspect the
oil drain plug. Wipe the threads clean. Now is a good time to make
sure the threads are in good shape and have not been cross threaded (yet another
neat trick the oil boys at the quickly lube have learned to do).
More Engine Oil Change
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