NOTE: This conversion alters one of
the safety devices (the brakes) on your vehicle. If you should decided to
undertake this conversion, it should be performed by personnel who are competent
to conduct such alterations to a vehicle. This conversion can result in
changes to your vehicle's handling and braking ability. This is not a step
by step set of instructions on how to do it, but rather a summary of the various
things I did to accomplish my conversion. Any similar conversion work
performed on your vehicle is done at your own risk.
Note from Stu: Bill sent me an e-mail and asked if I would be
interested in adding some D35 disc brake conversion info to the web site.
He stated that there was not too much of it available on the net and thought it
would be helpful to the other D35 owners who wanted the convenience of disc
brakes. So a big thanks to William for the pics and his comments from his
D35 disc brake conversion.
A few weeks ago I was checking my drum brakes for a routine inspection and adjustment. I pulled one drum off but the other decided it was going to stay; this was the last straw with the rear drum brakes. I had been looking at Stu�s Off Road web site and was inspired when I seen the article on the rear disc brake conversion. His article covered the Dana 44 and my TJ has the typical Dana 35C so I set out for new territory.
I found that the line of Jeep Grand Cherokees with the Dana 35C was a great donor jeep. I pulled my rear discs off of a 1996 Grand Cherokee that had taken a hit to the rear.
When you pull the parts off take the Calipers, discs, and backing plate and the rubber line on the caliper. Even if the calipers are junk you can use them for a core fee at the local auto parts store and the disc may be turned as well.
Buy all of your parts a head of time to make it easier, this whole job took me about two hours.
Before you begin, here is a list of parts you will need to buy before you
upgrade to rear disc brakes.
1. �" 12 Point Wrench
2. 2 Quarts of 75W-90W GL-5 Differential fluid. (find your factory specifications)
3. Mopar Limited Slip Differential Friction Modifier. (if you have a limited slip differential)
4. Differential Gasket and Gasket maker.
5. DOT 3 Brake fluid or better.
6. 3/8" Brake Line Wrench.
8. A good set of tools.
Now after removing the drum brake and all of its junk, it's time to remove the rear axle shafts. This was not as scary as I thought but rather easy.
Remove the differential cover (1/2 in. Socket) and drain all of the fluid. Remove the � 12-point lock bolt that holds the axles and C-Clips in place.
Remove the pinion shaft out of the differential (Do Not turn the
axle shafts or drive shaft while the lock bolt is out, your spider gears may
fall out.) Push in your axles and the C-Clips will fall out and now you
can pull the axles out of the housing.
Now your ready to remove the factory drum backing plate, I sprayed down the backing plate bolts with some WD-40 before I started to loosen things up.
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