As with most products, at least those that intend to stay on the market, improvements and refinements come after some field time. Feedback from customers can help turn a good product into an even better one. The results is the Generation II SwayLOC. OffRoadOnly is offering several parts of the Generation II product as upgrade and/or replacement parts for the original SwayLOC swaybars. If your SwayLOC needs a replacement part or you are simply looking to improve a good product, then read on. Please check with ORO in regards to their current pricing for these parts. This write-up covers three of the upgrades that I've installed on my SwayLOC.
My upgrades consisted of a new torsion tube (to improve on-road use), a new latching mechanism, and new heim joints. Applying the upgrades was very straight forward. If you installed your SwayLOC, you'll breeze right through. If someone else installed it, do not worry. Here is the write-up for the SwayLOC install. After you read it, you should have no problems following the rest of this write-up on your unit.
The first step was to remove the existing links from the arms and from the axle mounts. Put a wrench on the flats on the heim joint and remove the Nyloc nut. Once the links are removed from the arms and axle mounting tabs, loosen the jam nut and unscrew the heim joint from the link itself.
Here is a picture of the old and new heim joints. The old style joint is on the left, the new joint on the right. Note the substantially beefier body on the new heim joint. It is a full chromoly joint that has a nylon race to prevent dirt and debris from entering the ball/socket area. ORO says it should eliminate the squeaks and rattles that may exude from a well worn original joint.
While I had the links separated from the heim joints, I took the opportunity to give them a fresh coat of black spray paint. After the links had dried, I coated the heim joint threads with anti-seize compound and screwed them back into the links. You'll be recycling the jam nut.....don't forget to put it on first.
The links are looking good with a fresh coat of paint and new heim joints so it is now time to remove the pinch bolts that keep the arms attached to the sway bar. Don't forget to remove the captive screw and washer (using an Allen wrench) on the end of the torsion bar. After loosening the pinch bolts, slide the arms off of the splines.
On the driver's side, remove the captive screw and the outer arm from the torsion bar (loosen the pinch bolt and slide it off the bar). You will see a bushing (mine was a bit greasy) that aligns the inner torsion bar within the outer torsion tube. This bushing is no longer used in the new configuration. With the bushing out of the way, remove the pinch bolt on the inner arm and then slide the arm off of the torsion tube splines.
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